A slight trepidation accompanied my arrival in Dakar. The reason? The Africa Cup of Nations (CAN) final. You are familiar with the narrative: this championship match has unfortunately become a source of contention, seemingly poisoning the bond between Morocco and Senegal. Such is the common perception, and it holds a degree of truth.
Amadou, my taxi driver, a courteous and smiling man in his fifties, was aware of my Moroccan origin. Our conversation meandered, touching on various topics. Ultimately, he remarked, «Despite everything, Senegal and Morocco are brothers…».
It is that very phrase, «despite everything,» that alters the entire meaning. What should convey profound fraternal ties between nations instead hints at a troubling undercurrent. Can a single football game truly possess the power to unravel such a relationship? Or did it merely serve as a catalyst, the final straw that revealed existing fragilities?
The topic of the CAN final surfaced persistently, like a shadow lurking beneath every discussion, ready to dampen the mood. In the bustling bazaars of the Plateau district, situated in the city center, we attempted to negotiate the price of local fabric. The vendor quoted prices based on his assessment of the customer. «That will be 13,000 XOF (CFA francs) per meter.» 10,000? No. 11,000? Still no. We then tried the classic appeal: «We are your brothers from Morocco!» This invocation of brotherhood (or a sincere «assalamou alaykoum» to emphasize shared faith) typically smooths interactions and lowers prices across Africa. Not here. The merchant stiffened, his demeanor abruptly shifting: «Ah, if it’s Morocco, then it’s 20,000 XOF!»
«It is hoped that these unsettling emotions will soon dissipate, for both Senegal and Morocco…»
His tone implied, «I am no longer interested in selling!» We were, in essence, indirectly prompted to leave the bazaar, almost as if we were unwelcome intruders.
During a conversation, a human rights activist, dedicated to combating female genital mutilation, unexpectedly stated: «Please, release our brothers detained in Morocco; what are you waiting for?» The plea for the release of Senegalese supporters arrested and tried after the notorious final recurred as a persistent theme, echoed by other individuals we encountered.
Some openly admitted to now boycotting businesses owned by Moroccans. They spoke candidly, without the guarded language characteristic of diplomats or those seeking to make a sale. Yet, to alleviate the tension, they would often add: «In Senegal, we hold great affection for Moroccans…».
While this assertion is likely true, it feels incomplete. The unspoken ellipsis implies sentiments such as anger, frustration, misunderstanding, and even lingering hurt. One must hope that these unsettling emotions will soon dissipate, for both Senegal and Morocco.
Ultimately, governments and federations will find common ground and reconcile; shared interests and reason invariably prevail. However, the emotional scars of individuals heal differently, and often much more slowly.
This visit to Senegal was, as they say, brief yet impactful. It was undoubtedly affected by the aforementioned issues, but not to the extent of being ruined. Many residents of Dakar made it a truly memorable experience through their genuine warmth, vibrant zest for life, and sincere friendship – without any unspoken reservations!
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